Green Grease

"I feel kinda blah" I told Dwayne. We had just climbed one of the grunge routes to get up to a sweet handcrack called Green Grease. I tried growling like a bear to psych myself up but it didn't work too well. I was tired from climbing till dark with a group of young people the day before. Staying up late around the campfire at Miguel's hadn't helped either. I wasn't psyched up but I started up the route anyway. I wanted to tick this climb off my list and lead it clean. It was a bit odd to get onto the route but I found the first stance and a cam went in no problem so I kept going and plugged another. A bulge was in front of me. Some nice stemming moves and a great handjam got me past the bulge. Ahead the crack is too narrow for a hands. The crux. I worked my feet up high with both hands jammed next to each other down low and made the long move to the next jam. Another cam went in quick and I kept moving. I was breathing hard now. With a few cams under me I just kept going to the top. It all went by casually. I was breathing heavy but otherwise relaxed. The climb had gone by with no difficulties. Relaxed climbing. While I was building the anchor to bring Dwayne up, I wondered why I thought I needed to be psyched up to send my project. Relaxed climbing is way better. Now I just have to find another route that inspires me to work it. Green Grease didn't seem that difficult so I think it's time to move up to a route a grade harder. There are lots of possibles....Maybe Big Money or Africa.