WOOO HOOO! I sent Cheaper than a Movie at Chica Bonita. Finally. Yup, it was exciting, scary, and long as Sunday church. That final push to the anchors was unerving with crappy gear below me but it went. Incredible route. Now comes the search for some new route to get inspired about. I guess I should go send Grilled Steak before some route scammer jumps it. hehe, good luck finding it. I also put up a new line last weekend that Ginger,Tonya,Dwayne and I found awhile back. We puzzled over how to get on the thing but never attempted it. I stuck a big cam in it and found a good sidepull, kicked my foot up neck high and cranked up on it hard, made the throw to the jug above and then it was sketch to get past the bulge without falling off and cratering into the ground. I got a rest on top the bulge and the rest of the route was just as sweet as the beginning. it's a shame it isn't longer because the moves are sweet.
Mike and I were rewarded with a fantastic view of the lower Gorge from the summit. All in all it was a great weekend of climbing.
Mike and I were rewarded with a fantastic view of the lower Gorge from the summit. All in all it was a great weekend of climbing.
posted by ynot | 7:55 PM
2 Comments:
go ynot!! i just read your description of this route on rrclimbing.com. it was the most helpful one, what with gear sizes!! (is this the same route you had a cam pop on with your knife JUST back in your pocket?)
Yup that would be the same route.
The first 20 or 30 feet are verticle with good holds and stances for gear. The next 25 feet is the crux.It leans right and the crack is real small and shallow, so you're at iffy stances placing iffy gear. You have to get through it to get to another rest. The rest of the route isn't as tough but it goes on forever.The last move is kinda sketchy and unprotectable unless you clip the sport route bolt.(you will be tempted)
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